Keeping your boat looking and working its best.
Above waterline maintenance
Washing
Wash boat with freshwater and mild soap after each use. Make sure to flush deck hardware and furling systems.
Lewmar acrylic hatches- clean only with mild soap and water. There are special acrylic polishes on the market that will help in keeping your hatches looking new.
Keep your canvas clean by washing regularly with mild soap. Lubricate your zippers on a regular basis to keep the operating freely- zipper lubricants are available at West Marine or your local canvas shop. Clean and polish your windows with the recommended products suitable for the material your windows are made of (polycarbonate rigid type or soft/ more flexible vinyl). If you are in doubt of what you have contact your local canvas shop.
Waxing
Wax boat with good marine cleaner wax such as Maguire’s 50 or 3M Marine Cleaner Wax. Before waxing make sure boat is clean. We recommend waxing hull sides and all smooth deck surfaces at the very least 1 time per year preferably in spring. A well waxed boat will clean up MUCH EASIER every time you wash it. Besides that, your boat always looks better with a fresh coat of wax.
Cleaning and maintenance of bare (untreated) teak
Only use teak cleaner if absolutely necessary to remove tough stains or neglected wood. Teak cleaners are actually harmful to the wood and deck hardware if not used with extreme caution. Most teak cleaners contain acids which will destroy anodized and chrome finishes on winches, hatches, port lights, tracks, toe rails, etc.
We recommend keeping your teak clean regularly (at least once per month during season) with a diluted solution of Lemon Fresh Ammonia and fresh water. Using a 5 gallon bucket, dilute the water/ ammonia solution to a ratio of 6 parts water to 1 part ammonia. Pre-wet the area where you are working with plenty of fresh water. Using a white scotch-brite pad (available at West Marine or hardware stores) gently work the solution into the teak scrubbing with the grain and let stand for one minute. Rinse with plenty of fresh water. Note: Heavy concentration of ammonia or prolonged contact with ammonia can also damage anodizing and chromed surfaces- be sure to work with extreme caution.
Bottom maintenance
Have bottom cleaned on a monthly basis during the warm months. Have your diver check and change zincs as necessary. Average lifespan for a zinc in most marinas on the Chesapeake bay is around 3 or 4 months. Make sure that diver inspects the prop and shaft paying particular attention to cutlass bearing and removing barnacles from prop and shaft. Also be sure the diver inspects and cleans inside of through hulls and exterior scoop strainers.
Tips:
- Always keep a spare or two of the correct zinc on board for your diver to use when he or she cleans the bottom.
- Get on a monthly contract for bottom cleaning. This will keep you boat performing well and at the same time save you money since most divers will offer deep discounts to monthly contract customers.
Winter storage
In addition to winterizing (mentioned below), we recommend you invest in yearly shrink-wrapping or a custom cover to protect your boat in the off season. This will greatly aid in keeping your boat looking its best.
Volvo Drip-less Seals
Your drip-less seal is water lubricated and does require some minor attention.
Make sure every time boat is launched that the seal is “burped”. This is done simply by gripping the seal firmly and simultaneously squeezing and twisting. Hold this position until water enters the boat. Once the water enters release your grip. This process ensures that the seal is purged of any air
The water feed nipple that connects the water feed hose on top of the stern tube needs replacement every 2 or 3 years. If in doubt replace it.
Life expectance of your seal is generally 500 engine hours.
Speed thru-hull transducer
We recommend keeping the transducer out of the boat when not in use. If you choose to keep it in you will have to clean it at least weekly. Dedicate an old (or new) toothbrush for the task of cleaning. A sponge and small bucket is also useful for this job.
The Head
The marine sanitation devise on your boat (otherwise known as the “Head”) is an important devise. To keep it working well it needs some maintenance and care.
Common problems with heads:
- Joker valves
- Priming of hand pump after winter lay-up
- Over flowing holding tank/ clogged vent pipe- note proper level-
- SMELLS!! Caused mostly by use of sea water- we suggest plumbing for fresh water or using shower head
Maintenance of head:
- Annual/ biannual replacement of Joker valve- depending on use.
- Cleaning head-mild household cleaner for bowl and surrounding areas.
- Vinegar for cleaning build up of calcium out of hoses and tank.
Emptying of holding tank:
- As often as possible- keep clean and rinse whenever possible.
- Build up of hard sludge in bottom of holding tank from lack of or improper emptying of tank.
Use of Macerator Pump:
- Use as often as possible- at least once per month during season- Lack of use causes the flexible impeller in the pump to dry up and distort creating a scenario where the pump will not self prime.
- Primary use for Flushing tank out after each and every pump out- adding tank treatment to aid in rinse an odor reduction (odorloss, etc).
Tips:
- Upgrade old style pump to new Twist n Lock.
- Get on a regular pump out schedule with your marina or local pump out company.
- NEVER store boat for ANY length of time with waste in tank.
Intake/ shower/ bilge strainers
All pumps on board your boat are protected from getting clogged by debris, etc… with strainers. It is important that all strainers are checked on a regular basis to keep your systems functioning properly. Be sure when re-installing strainer that o-ring seal is in its proper position. Check for leaks upon completion of cleaning strainer.
Zinc Maintenance
It is very important to change zincs (sacrificial anodes) as necessary to ensure protection of thru-hulls, propeller and shaft . Keep spares on board for your diver- or make sure the diver knows what type of zincs you require before having him come to clean the boat. Most boats will need at the very least 2 zinc changes per season. If you keep your boat in all year, expect to change zincs 3-4 times in a twelve month period.
Thru hull maintenance
Exercise your through hulls on a regular basis. Many through hulls will remain in either the open or closed position their entire life. Operating the handle on a regular basis will ensure that he valve does not lock up from lack of use. Grease your through hulls annually or every time the boat is hauled out of the water. We recommend white lithium spray grease- a product made by CRC in an aerosol can with a straw. You can by this at any good marine or auto parts store. It is also good practice to closely inspect the through hulls on a regular basis for any signs of electrolysis, cracking, etc.
Anchor windlass helpful hints
Flush your windlass regularly with freshwater.
Make sure that if there are any exposed connections in the anchor locker that the are covered with rubber boots. Clean and spray terminals if necessary with an anti-corrosive spray. Lubricate connection point where your windlass remote plugs in with silicone grease a couple times a year.
Windlasses vary by boat model. Take notes that will help you with your particular boat.
Winterization- Laying your boat up for the winter
We cannot stress enough the importance of properly winterizing all the systems on your boat. Unless you are absolutely 100% confident in performing this task yourself, contact a qualified professional to do it for you. Serious damage can result from an improperly winterized boat. Every winter we have heard of at least one boat sinking due to improper winterization.
Interior wood maintenance
Typical interior varnished wood needs little maintenance since there is minimal UV exposure. Start off each season by wiping down all interior vanished wood with mild soap and water. Dry with soft towel. Depending on finish you can sometimes use normal household type furniture polishes such as Pledge or Endust.
If your cabin sole is showing signs of wear or damage, consider coating with a polyurethane type of coating over a traditional varnish or lacquer. Polyurethanes provide a much more durable finish and come in different levels of sheen. Polyurethanes can also be applied over sound and well prepped varnished surfaces.
Varnishing interior wood is time consuming and requires a fair amount of skill and patience. Consider hiring a professional for “professional” results. Amateur applications very often look just that… Amateur!
Light surface scratches in glossy or semi gloss lacquer surfaces can many times be removed with a good polish with Mohawk industries “Scratch off”. Deeper scratches and light chips and dings can be touched up with a color matched marker.
Deeper gouges are better repaired with “burn in” type wax sticks. Professional repair is recommended in this circumstance.